Whole wheat buttermilk pancakes


Well, it has been nearly six years since I’ve put down any words or recipes here. It’s not because there haven’t been words or recipes, there have been a million of each at least, but time just whizzes by like a too small sign on the side of a busy highway and before you know it you’re past 40 and you’re a whole different person (more on that later).

The short story is, we’re still eating and making space for connection around the table. It’s not always supper these days (and not always at the table), but more often than not it’s breakfast where we all find ourselves in the same room, eating mostly the same thing, together. We added an island to our already small kitchen and it has become the Grand Central Station of our home where any one of us (friends included) can pull up a stool and stay awhile, especially during the morning hours when all we can manage is getting ourselves to the kitchen where the coffee sits. Our dining room table has taken on a different role most of time, housing a giant puzzle, a chess board and a bowl of wooden puzzle pieces no one can figure out how to solve. Clearing, setting and dining at the table is still a thing from time to time, but we have migrated to a more casual way of eating together and it suits us and the moment we’re in. Someone throws a record on while I cook and the boys, especially Jack, our 7 (almost 8) year old, will help with the prep, if there is any. Turns out, he’s a whiz with a chef’s knife. Historically I have enjoyed an empty kitchen where I can be in the zone and disappear into the work of cooking, but recently it has been fun to share that space with the kids when they feel like jumping in or hanging out. I’m still working on letting my spouse help (or hang out), but that’s probably a topic for another therapy session.

Let’s get to pancakes, shall we? I don’t know how many pancake recipes exist in the world, but this one is my all time favorite. Marion Cunningham, in her wonderful way, wrote a small book in the 80’s called The Breakfast Book. In it you will find all manner of breakfast wizardry, including these pancakes, but you will also be given some very good advice. Below is an excerpt of her rules for dining with “civility and deportment.” Make these wholesome, snappy pancakes some morning and try them on for size.

Breakfast Table Civility and Deportment by Marion Cunningham

1. Clean up before you come to the breakfast table: wash your face and comb your hair.

2. You don't have to get dressed.

3. Clean fingernails, please.

4. Reading the newspaper at the table is permissible, but a pleasant word or salutation must be spoken to all present.

5. Sit up straight and try to be cheerful.

6. Talk to one another politely; talk and listen in turn.

7. Because everyone is defenseless at breakfast, there should be no contentiousness or crossness.

8. Don't ever mention food dislikes or criticize the food.

9. Don't lick your fingers or stuff your mouth with food.

10. Don't play with your food.

11. Don't talk with your mouth full.

12. Butter your bread one part at a time; don't put your uneaten pieces back in the bread basket.

13. And don't answer questions in a saucy manner.

14. Remember, guests always receive the choicest portions.

Whole Wheat Buttermilk Pancakes

from Marion Cunningham’s The Breakfast Book

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup buttermilk, room temperature

  • 1 egg, room temperature

  • 3 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled slightly

  • 1/2 cup whole wheat flour

  • 1/4 cup all purpose flour

  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

  • 1 teaspoon baking soda

Preparation:

  1. Put the buttermilk, egg and melted butter in a mixing bowl. Whisk until the mixture is smooth and blended.

  2. Stir the flour, salt and baking soda together in a small bowl until blended. Stir into the buttermilk mixture and mix only until all of the flour is moistened. Keep the lumps as Marion instructed—she knows best!

  3. Heat a cast iron skillet or griddle to medium-low heat (this prevents the pancakes from burning before they can cook in the middle). Grease the pan with butter and add about a 1/4 to 1/3 cup of batter to the pan. I like to do one at a time in my 10” cast iron to make sure the shape is intact and the edges get nice and crispy. Although, this is a slow road to breakfast, so feel free to do as many at a time as you can manage, allowing at least a couple of inches between pancakes so you can flip ‘em when bubble start to form on the top. Cook for a few minutes more (Marion says briefly, which is about right) until golden and cooked through.

  4. Serve with a warm pat of butter (not the cold slab I have pictured above) and a generous pour of maple syrup and don’t forget—no saucy talk at the table.

If you’re interested, and I hope you will be, here’s the record we put on while we ate these pancakes and sipped our coffee: John Lee Hooker, Travelin’. It’s a great blues record; just the thing we needed to get the blood flowing while the pancakes worked their magic.

TOMATO TOAST WITH SCALLION LABNEH


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Oh, hey there! It’s been a few years and some stuff has happened around here! I made another human and it was hard work, but he’s almost two and a half now and I think it probably takes about that much time to become human again. He’s got crazy curly hair, an epic side eye and has my love for salty, briny things. I’m getting him a jar of fancy green olives for Christmas, because I know he’ll really appreciate them. Basically, my food twin.

We’ve done a lot of cooking and eating the last few years (and boy is my waistline solid, er soft, proof of this) and are still learning how to use food to bring us around the table as a family every day. Dinner is still a sacred place where we all gather together around a shared meal. It’s not always (rarely) glamorous which means many cold bowls of cereal topped with questionable blueberries but sometimes I pull together a quick sheet pan dinner with vegetables that everyone eats! It’s the small things in life, y’all!

Whatever our meal will be, one thing is certain, it has to be quick to be successful. Between school, work and bedtime, there just isn’t much time to get dinner on the table, so I rely on quick recipes to get us to the table as fast as possible. In the summer and early fall, this tomato toast is a life saver. Besides being fast, you can make it with as little effort as popping a piece of crusty bread into the toaster. I like to pan fry the bread in a skillet, because, well it’s delicious, but a toaster would be a fine substitute!


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tomato toast with scallion labneh

serves 4 hungry, tomato loving humans

A good loaf of bread and peak season tomatoes will make this dish sing. Get the best you can find!

Ingredients:

  • 4 slices of good quality country bread, 1” thick

  • 1 cup labneh

  • 2 scallions, thinly sliced

  • ½ cup cherry tomatoes (red or dark red), halved

  • 2 medium heirloom tomatoes (red or dark red), thickly sliced

  • ¾ tsp kosher salt

  • 1 large garlic clove, peeled and sliced in half crosswise

  • Olive oil for brushing bread and pan

  • Pepper

  • Large flake salt

Preparation:

  1. Heat a cast iron skillet over high heat. Drizzle olive oil over bread slices, on both sides.

  2. Rub the cut garlic (cut side down) over each side of the bread.

  3. Working in batches, add the bread to the hot pan, being careful not to crowd the pieces. Toast until deeply browned, about 3 minutes. Flip over and turn the heat down to medium high. Toast until well charred. Set aside.

  4. Mix together labneh, scallion and 3/4 tsp salt in a small bowl.

  5. Spoon a heaping tablespoon of scallion labneh over each slice of bread. Top with slices of heirloom tomatoes and sprinkle cherry tomatoes over. Drizzle a bit of olive oil over tomatoes and top with flaky salt and freshly ground pepper.


black lentils with marinated beets + feta

black lentils with marinated beets + feta

Plans can be tricky. I really like to have them and I like to make them, but keeping them can be difficult. We’ve talked about menu plans which are notorious for needing flexibility. Things happen, people get tired, leftovers need to be consumed. I try to be open to change in our weekly menu and even build it in by having a free night or a night just for leftovers, however when we’ve got people coming to dinner, I really like to have a solid plan, which is to say, I need one to stay sane. Last weekend we had a flurry of visitors, all at the last minute which for me, is so much fun. I’m so happy that people feel like our house is a place where they can just drop in and crash for a night and they know they’ll be welcome. If you know me at all, you know that in these scenarios, I go a little overboard. I switch our toddlers room to a guest room (I set it up to function that way), I go into hyper clean mode and I always offer dinner. 

Deciding what to make for dinner guests can be a whole thing for me. I want to make something a little impressive, but not too difficult to execute and it needs to be something that won’t have me stuck in the kitchen all night (although, let’s be honest, with a toddler, those kinds of meals are basically a thing of the past). I usually give it a lot of thought, almost always falling back on some of the dishes I’ve made over and over like a roast chicken or lamb meatballs, but when it’s last minute, I’ve got to just make something. Sometimes, these end up being my favorite meals. Having to just use what I have and forcing myself to get creative sometimes pays off and occasionally it doesn’t. This time, I’m happy that it did. 


This lentil salad was my favorite dish from our meal this weekend. I had already roasted and marinated beets a few days prior so all I needed to do was cook some lentils. It ended up being beautiful and even better, delicious. The recipe will give you more beets than you need, but they’re so good you might just snack on them out of the container. Put them on salads, chop them fine and sprinkle them over toast slathered with ricotta or make the best veggie sandwich ever.

Note: The beets need to marinate overnight so you'll need to start this recipe a day ahead. 

black lentils with marinated beets + feta // serves 4

Ingredients: 

  • 1 cup black lentils, picked over and rinsed
  • 2 cups water
  • 3 medium yellow beets
  • 3 medium purple beets
  • 2 shallots, minced
  • olive oil 
  • sherry vinegar 
  • kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
  • scant 1/4 cup thinly sliced red onion
  • 6 ounces sheep’s milk feta, cut into 1/2” cubes
  • 1/4 cup raw walnuts
  • dill for garnish

Preparation: 

  1. Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees with a rack in the middle. Remove the green tops from the beets and scrub clean under cool water. Place the yellow beets in the middle of a sheet of foil, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with kosher salt. Wrap the foil up around the beets and secure at the top, making a packet. Repeat with the purple beets. Place the foil packets onto a sheet pan and roast for one hour. Remove the beets from the oven and let cool for about 5-10 minutes. Unwrap the packets and place each beet under cool water and rub off the skin. Set aside on a large cutting board, not letting the purple beets touch the yellow ones. You can use two separate cutting boards if you'd like. 
  2. In a small bowl, add a 1/2 cup olive oil and 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar. Add the shallots and season liberally with salt and freshly ground pepper. 
  3. Slice the beets into wedges and place in two separate air tight containers (otherwise the yellow beets will turn red). Divide the vinaigrette between the two containers and marinate overnight in the refrigerator. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before using. 
  4. Add the water and lentils to a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and bring to a low simmer. Cook until lentils are cooked but still have a bite to them, about 20 minutes. Drain the lentils if there is still water in the pot and season with a small glug of olive and a splash of vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 
  5. While the lentils are cooking, toast the walnuts in a dry medium skillet over medium high heat for about 3-4 minutes. Be careful to not turn your back on them, they’ll burn quickly. Let cool and then chop coarsely or just break them apart with your hands. 
  6. Divide the lentils among four bowls and top with both red and yellow beets. Add feta, red onion, sprinkle with walnuts and dill. Spoon over some of the vinaigrette left in the beet containers. 

banana bread with toasted millet

banana bread with toasted millet

My freezer needs some serious organizational help. It's full of half bags of frozen fruit, chocolate disks for melting or chopping and peas and corn for my little weirdo who likes to eat them frozen. I've got about 20 pounds of alternative whole grain flours to aid in my obsession for all things Kim Boyce and add to that mix ins and toppings like toasted millet, flax seeds and cocoa nibs and that equals one packed freezer. There's a lot of great stuff in there, but it's all such a mess, I can hardly tell what's in there at all. 

A few weeks ago, with the help of my much more fashionable friends, I created a capsule wardrobe (find out more here). The basic explanation is you whittle down your wardrobe to only 37 pieces for a particular season (just 3 months), including pants, tops, outerwear and shoes and you don't buy anything in that time. It sounds really restrictive, which is why I waited so long to do one, but as it turns out, it's incredibly freeing. Admittedly, fashion is something I'm interested in, but it's not the highest priority in my life. My closet is full of basics, most of which can be worn while chasing a toddler or cooking up a big batch of bolognese. It did get me thinking though about what I really need and how much of my house is full of just space fillers, particularly my kitchen (ahem... my freezer). I think the concept of the capsule wardrobe could apply to many parts of our lives. The bulk of the hoarding in my life is centered in the kitchen. Fancy vinegar, five different types of lentils, a spice cabinet that now has to be double stacked. I like the idea of having a few quality ingredients that I use often, with the infrequent exception of something fancy and less utilitarian. 

banana bread with toasted millet
banana bread with toasted millet and butter or nutella

So, in an effort to start the process of narrowing down what I actually need, I decided I needed to start using what was actually in there. I had three ziplock bags full of perfectly black bananas, so I figured I'd just bake a whole bunch of stuff. I made a batch of banana cereal muffins (from Kim Boyce's book of course) and then a pair of banana breads with the addition of toasted millet, which I absolutely loved. It was nice to have a little more room in the freezer, although, the next day I made peach + yogurt popsicles which pretty much filled the vacant space. 

banana bread with toasted millet

This recipe is from The Grand Central Baking Book. I can't say enough good things about this book. It's great for someone who is a proficient baker and it's great for someone just starting out. This recipe for banana bread is pretty straight forward and it produces exactly what you want in a banana bread. It's moist, tastes like banana and it has some crunch to it with the addition of the millet and course sugar. I do realize this is the second banana bread recipe I've shared with you, but I feel like I'm always looking for the best one. I'm pretty sure this one is it. 

banana bread with toasted millet // makes 2 loaves // adapted from this book

Ingredients: 

  • 4 cups all purpose flour
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 2 cups (14 ounces) granulated sugar
  • 2/3 cup (5 fluid ounces) canola oil
  • 2 1/2 cups (1 pound 4 ounces) banana puree (about 4 small bananas)
  • 4 eggs
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 1 cup (8 fluid ounces) buttermilk
  • 2 heaping tablespoons toasted millet
  • course sugar

Preparation: 

  1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease and flour two 9x5 inch loaf pans. 
  2. Whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl. 
  3. Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, beat the sugar, oil and banana puree on medium-high speed until the mixture is lighter in color, about 3 minutes. 
  4. Crack the eggs into a liquid measuring cup, add the vanilla and whisk together. With the mixer on low speed, slowly pour in the eggs. Continue to mix until the eggs are fully incorporated. 
  5. Add one-third of the dry ingredients and mix briefly on low speed, then add half of the buttermilk. Mix well and repeat, using half of the remaining dry ingredients and the rest of the buttermilk. Add the remaining dry ingredients and mix just until combined. 
  6. Using a rubber spatula, scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl and fold in the toasted millet, then divide the batter between the two pans. Top with a sprinkle of coarse sugar. 
  7. Bake for 30 minutes, then rotate the pans and bake for 30 minutes more. Lower the temperature to 325, rotate again and bake for 30 minutes more. The loaves should be golden brown with cracked tops, and a skewer inserted in the center should come out clean.